Askja Herdubreidarlindir
THE HERDUBREIDARLINDIR AREA
This is Odadahraun
The Ódadahraun lava flat is about 5,000 sq. km in size. The area is demarcated by the river Skjalfandafljót to the west and the glacial river Jökulsa a Fjöllum to the east. There are several patches of vegetation in the Ódadahraun area, such as Surtluflæda and Marteins-flæda, Sudurarbotnar and Grafarlönd and Herdubreidar-lindir. There are numerous fascinating geological formations in the Ódadahraun area, Mt. Herdubreid, being the best known of these.
The Dyngjufjöll mountains, the outer Dyngjufjöll mountains and Mt. Trölladyngja can be seen at great distances from many directions. West of the Dyngju-sandur plain is Mt. Urdarhals, a shield volcano, with Iceland's largest visible shield volcano crater at the summit. Between the Dyngjusandur plain and Mt. Vadalda, the clear, spring-fed river Svarta runs to the east. Just before Svarta joins the river Jökulsa a Fjöllum, there is a beautiful waterfall known as Skínandi ('Radiant') from the white sheet it forms where it cascades off the lava ledge. The Herdubreidarlindir area still bears the marks of immense cataclysmic floods issuing from south of the Kverkfjöll mountains.
The Herdubreidarlindir Area - The Herdubreid Nature Reserve
The area surrounding Mt. Herdubreid, about 175 sq. km, was declared a protected area in 1974. The incentive for declaring the area a nature reserve was no doubt the majestic dignity of Mt. Herdubreid, together with the fact that the banks of the river Lindaa and the Grafarlönd area are rich in diverse vegetation considering the high altitude. The most common species of plants are archangelica, tea-leaved willow, broad-leaved willow and least willow. The most colourful species is the Arctic Riverbeauty. The multitude of species categorised as primitive plants is fascinating. Light grey moss known as hraunkembingur ('lava wool') grows in clusters and is very common in the lava fields of Mt. Flatadyngja, west of Mt. Herdubreid. Naflar is a type of lichen, i.e. a composite organism made up of a fungus and an alga. The Icelandic name of this species, naflar (i.e. rock tripe, literally 'navels'), is derived from the fact that the plant attaches itself to rock by means of a narrow thread, usually facing north, the prevalent direction of precipitation. Alpine gentian spreads out its beautiful blue corolla only while the sun is shining. Ormaflétta, a species of moss, forms clusters of serpent-shaped stems, or 'worms'.
In the Herdubreidarlindir and Grafarlönd areas, a multitude of pink-footed geese nest. The nestlings hatch in mid-June, and the family departs from the nest a few hours after the last nestling has emerged. Many other species of birds inhabit the spring area: Harlequin Ducks, Mallards, Red-Throated Divers, Purple Sandpipers, Golden Plovers, White Wagtails, Snow Buntings, Long-tailed Ducks, Red-necked Phalaropes, Terns, Arctic Skuas, Falcons, Ravens, Lesser Black-backed Gulls, Merlins and Great Skuas. The largest pond south of the springs is home to a Whooper Swan couple. Foxes are occasionally seen in Herdubreidarlindir, but they are 'vagrants' as their normal habitat is far away. Reindeer are also seen from time to time. Field mice live in Herdubreidarlindir, and minks occasionally visit.
History
'Eyvindur's hut' is at the edge of the lava where the river Lindaa turns north along the Lindahraun lava field, west of the current refuge hut. The legendary outlaw Eyvindur Jónsson, alias Fjalla-Eyvindur ('Mountain-Eyvindur'), spent the winter of 1774-75 in the Lindir area. He considered it the worst winter of the entire term of his exile. It is believed that he did not have fire and that he survived on dried meat, roots of archangelica and birds.
Hiking Trails
There are numerous hiking trails in the Herdubreidarlindir area, and there is an interpretive trail into the lava field. Information on hiking trails can be obtained from the wardens.
In addition to short hiking routes in the vicinity of the springs there are longer routes. The first of the longer routes mentioned here is staked and leads to the foot of Mt. Herdubreid. It takes two hours, both ways. The hiking route to the path up Mt. Herdubreid (three hours each way) is also staked, but the ascent itself is unmarked. Starting from Lindir, climbing Mt. Herdubreid takes twelve hours, return included, and it is necessary to start early in the morning, especially when the days grow shorter in August. The ascent from the foot of the mountain takes about three hours. The climb starts at the end of the road west of the mountain. The road heads in the direction of the Dyngjufjöll mountains and then runs along the foothills of Mt. Herdubreid via the pass between the foothills and Mt. Herdubreid itself. Scaling the mountain is often difficult in early summer because of snow and ice. Landslides may also be expected, so walking in tight groups is not recommended. Prepare a schedule, obtain information from the wardens and inform them of your plans.
The hiking route to Mt. Brædrafell, near Mt. Kollótta-dyngja, begins at the point of ascent to Mt. Herdubreid and heads via Flatadyngja to the shelter of the Akureyri Touring Club, east of Mt. Brædrafell. The route is staked, and the walk from Herdubreidarlindir takes 7-9 hours.
There is little water in the Ódadahraun area, although snow can sometimes be found high in the mountains in early summer.
Therefore bring your own supplies of water.
Mt. Askja in the Dyngjufjöll mountains.
One of the most remarkable geological formations in the Ódadahraun area is Mt. Askja, a caldera in the Dyngjufjöll mountains which was declared a natural monument in 1978. The Dyngjufjöll mountains were created mostly in a sub-glacial eruption occurring under the ice sheet of the glacial epoch. The central volcano Askja was formed afterwards, at the end of the Ice Age, in a major eruption which emptied the magma chamber under the Dyngjufjöll mountains. After the eruption, the roof of the magma chamber, with the palagonite mountain massif on top, subsided. On the surface, a deep depression was formed which later began to fill with lava from eruptions occurring at the margins of the sinkage. The bottom of Askja (named after its caldera shape, askja meaning caldera in Icelandic) is now at an altitude of 1,100 metres.
During Easter of 1875 an immensely powerful eruption occurred in the southern corner of Askja, the present site of Öskjuvatn lake. About 2.5 cubic kilometres of volcanic material surged up from the vent in the space of a few hours. The process was similar to the creation of Mt. Askja. After the eruption, the magma chamber ceiling began to subside, eventually stopping at 250 metres below its former level. The depression filled with ground water and the 220-metre deep Lake Öskjuvatn, the deepest lake in Iceland, was formed. In 1922-29 several small eruptions occurred at the edges of this new depression. Another eruption occurred in Vikruborgir, a row of craters in Mt. Askja, in 1961.
Askja is still quite active, and its foundation is still gradually sinking. This unique natural phenomenon is certainly 'alive and kicking' and will remind people from time to time in the future that Iceland is in a continuous state of formation.
Viti at Askja.
Víti ('Inferno') is a maar (a crater created by a single, explosive volcanic eruption) formed in the eruption in 1875. Water has accumulated in Víti. Its temperature is variable, depending on how much meltwater is discharged into it in springtime, but the normal temperature is about 30°C or more. The depth of the water is greatest at the centre, over 8 metres. Víti is a popular bathing site, but those intending to bathe in Víti should be warned that the sloping path is very slippery in wet weather and the mud at the bottom is quite hot, especially at the eastern bank. There is also a danger of rocks falling from the edges. On the hiking trail to Víti, it is worthwhile to be on the lookout for pits or holes in the cover of pumice at the sides of the path. Holes which are not filled with water provide a view of a layer of ice under the 80-100 cm thick layer of pumice. This is snow from 1875.
History
Mt. Askja in the Dyngjufjöll mountains is not only a magnificent natural phenomenon, but also has a mysterious and tragic history. In 1907, an expedition of German scientists started on a scientific expedition to Mt. Askja. The leader of the expedition was the geologist Walter von Knebel. He was accompanied by Hans Spetmann, a student of geology, and the painter Max Rudloff. Knebel and Rudloff both drowned in the lake while conducting research on 10 July 1907. Their deaths were attributed to the poor construction of their makeshift canvas boat. Hans Spetmann was doing geological research in the mountains north-east of the lake on the day of the accident. In the spring of 1908, Walter von Knebel's fiancée, Ina von Grumbkow, came to Iceland, as there were rumours afoot about the circumstances of their disappearance, she did not believe that they could vanish without a trace. After staying for some time, mostly in search of her fiancé at Lake Öskjuvatn, she left. Her thoughts and words on departing describe the impression that this environment can have on travellers:
"Few mortal men are consigned to such a majestic grave as the two who rest in this stately, bright mountain lake. Only kings need to dwell perpetually in their graves, where they are laid to earthly rest. Do those who rest in the golden sarcophagi of the Escarole Palace or the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs enjoy, in the human understanding, more serenity? Here, a peace of the greatest solemnity prevails on bright summer days and in the dark hours of winter - century after century."
Before Ina left Mt. Askja, she and her escorts built a stone monument to commemorate the two men. The monument, which has a guest-book, stands just north-west of Víti. On the west bank of the lake, near the Mývetningahraun lava field, stands another monument, a cairn with a marble plate and engraved greetings from an Austrian expedition the monument commemorates the two Germans.
Hiking routes
From the parking lot at Vikraborgir it is a 35-minute walk to Lake Öskjuvatn. The hiking route is staked and easy to walk.
From Drekagil one can walk westwards across the Dyngjufjöll mountains to Víti. This walk takes about 2-3 hours, one way. Travellers should not scale the mountains unless the weather outlook is favourable, as the weather is unpredictable and these mountain peaks and the Askja crater are the first to shroud themselves in cloud banks when the weather changes.
A walk around Lake Öskjuvatn takes about 8-12 hours. Walking near the water edge is impossible, or at least unsafe, as rocks slide almost continuously down the mountainside into the lake. Those intending to walk to Mt. Brædrafell from the Drekagil ravine should be prepared for a 7-9 hour hike. The route is staked and begins some distance south-east of the edge of the impassable Vikahraun lava field.
From the parking area at Vikraborgir lies a staked route, right across the narrowest part of the Askja crater, and then westwards via the Jónsskard pass to the lodge of the Akureyri Touring Club in the Dyngjufjöll valley. This walk takes about 9-11 hours. Again, travellers should avoid this route unless the weather outlook is favourable.
Weather Conditions in the Ódadahraun Plain
Precipitation in the Ódadahraun plain is among the lowest in Iceland. The area is sheltered by the Vatnajökull ice cap. When winds blow from the north and north-east, however some precipitation is carried from these directions. Sometimes there is sleet, snowfall and poor visibility on the Gæsavötn route. When facing such conditions, a revision of the travel schedule is necessary, as the Gæsavötn route reaches an altitude of 1,200 metres above sea level.
Service - Accommodation
Camping sites in the eastern part of the Ódadahraun area are only at Herdubreidarlindir and Drekagil. The Akureyri Touring Club is responsible for accommodation in lodges and campsites. The Þorsteinsskali lodge at Herdubreidarlindir, built around 1960, provides 30 sleeping places, and the Dreki lodge at Drekagil provides about 20. The Brædrafell lodge has about 12 sleeping places, and the Dyngjufjalladalur lodge provides accommodation for 16 persons.
INFORMATION
Further information on roads, distances, weather conditions, vegetation, birdlife and other wildlife, or whatever may be of interest in the area, can be obtained from the wardens operating at Herdubreidarlindir and Drekagil.
Information can also be obtained from the offices of the Nature Conservation Agency and the Akureyri Touring Club.
Travellers are asked to show respect for the environment. Never drive off marked roads. Please pick up your own litter and dispose of it on your return to town.
