Gullfoss
Hvítá - The river
The river system of Hvítá, Sogið and Ölfusá extends from the mountains to the beaches and 
from the glaciers to the sea, connecting Kerlingarfjöll, Gullfoss, Geysir, Skálholt, Ármannsfell, Thingvellir and Eyrarbakki. For thousands of years the rivers have followed their courses, delighting Sigríður of Brattholt with their beauty and power, while posing a threat to travellers, rich and poor alike. Many people received a soaking, others were even drowned, and there were people who claimed that mysterious monsters dwelt in these streams. Today the waters still flow from the mountains to the sea, a continuing source of wonder and mystery.
The watershed of the Ölfusá river region covers some 6100 square kilometres, or about one seventeenth of the entire area of Iceland. With each passing second they empty some 440 cubic metres of fresh water into the ocean, amounting to a total daily flow of 38 million tons.
Gullfossgjúfur - the canyon
The canyon below Gullfoss extends for some 2.5 kilometres and reaches a depth of 70 metres.
Geologists have suggested that it may have been formed in torrential floods caused by so-called jökulhlaup (glacial outbursts), occurring near the end of the last ice age.
The end of the last ice age in Iceland. The ocean extends far inland, a continuous glacial cap covers the entire highland area. The river, falling from the edge of the highland area, has not yet formed a canyon.
As the glacier retreats the land rises from the sea. Under the edges of the glacier large masses of meltwater collect, restrained for a time by the ice mass, and then surge forth.
During a jökulhlaup (glacial outbursts) the amount of water running seaward during a single 24-hour period can equal a normal flow of up to five years, but the erosive force of such sudden deluges is many times greater.
In the yawning canyon, with grassy hollows along its upper edges, the great river winding between the gravel bars along the bottom appears a mere trickle. These are typical remains of a jökulhlaup (glacial outbursts).
Gullfoss is an example of a waterfall forming where the water has followed a fissure in the lava and carved a passageway through it.
Gullfoss - the Golden falls
Gullfoss is actually two separate waterfalls, the upper one has a drop of 11 metres and the lower one 21 metres. The rock of the river bed was formed during an interglacial period.
Water flows over Gullfoss at an average rate of 109 cubic metres per second. The heaviest floods have recorded a flow of 2000 cubic metres per second. During the summer the flow is 130 cubic metres per second, which would take only 3 seconds to fill this building. People were eager to exploit the power potential of Gullfoss and many plans for hydroelectric developments on the river Hvítá have been proposed.
Kjalvegur - the route
The route over Kjölur (literally, the "keel") crosses the central highlands of Iceland between the glaciers Langjökull and Hofsjökull. It became a frequently travelled route soon after Iceland was settled in the ninth century, but during the 17th and 18th centuries travelling through the highlands decreased considerably. At the beginning of this century efforts began to mark the route with stone cairns, and today Kjölur is once more a common route for travellers in automobiles, on bikes or sleds, or, as in former times, on foot or horseback. Everyone travelling over Kjölur should exercise caution and be prepared for unexpected situations, including every type of weather.
Travellers are requested to follow the basic code of good travellers and show respect and consideration for both nature and each other. The natural balance of the high Arctic is a delicate one and a lack of caution by travellers can result in irreparable natural damage or human injury.
The journey of the brothers from Reynistaður
In 1780 two young brothers from the farm Reynistaður in Skagafjörður were sent to the south of Iceland to purchase sheep. Three other men accompanied them on their return journey northwards over Kjölur later that autumn. They set out with their flock from a farming district in southern Iceland near the end of October. The weather was rainy in the south, with snowstorms in the more northenly areas of Iceland.
The following summer tents belonging to the two brothers were found, along with the remains of two of their companions and a large number of skeletons of sheep and horses. The bodies of the brothers themselves and their third companion were never found and according to the legends which grew out of the incident they had been robbed and killed, with their third companion acting as accomplice to the crime. The event did much to spread fear in people's minds and the route fell into almost total disuse for nearly a century afterwards.
Bláfell - the mountain
The mountain Bláfell is a table mountain, or stapi, of tuff (palagonite) formed by a volcanic eruption under an ice cap. The surrounding land at the foot of the mountain is 300-400 metres above sea level, while the highest peak of the mountain reaches a height of 1204 metres. Apart from glacial peaks, it is the highest mountain in southwest Iceland.
Bergthór of Bláfell
Bergthór was the name of a bergbúi (literally, a "cliff dweller") who lived in the mountain Bláfell. Humans had no reason to fear him, but he rewarded well anyone who did him a good turn. He requested that he be buried in the graveyard of the district church and his wish was granted.
Ólafur múður
According to folk legends at one time a dangerous giantess lived in the mountain Bláfell. The Kjölur route became impassable, as travellers either got lost on the way or went insane. Large numbers of farmers' sheep also disappeared.
The giantess in fact proved to be an elven woman under a spell. To be released, a male human would have to call her by name. The man who finally managed to do so was called Ólafur, and the last that was known of him was that he deserted the world of humans to live with the hidden people.
Ljósgrýti - Liparite
From this spot the mountains Kerlingarfjöll, the group of peaks southwest of the glacier Hofsjökull, are silhouetted against the sky.
The rock of these mountains is primarily liparite, which gives them their colour and appearance. Liparite is about 75% silicon dioxide (SiO2) with a small amount of magnesium and iron. When liparite magma cools and hardens it forms clear crystals of feldspar which gives the rock its special colour.
Heiðarland - Heathland
The land surrounding Gullfoss is about 200 metres above sea level. Vegetation is typical of Icelandic heathland and many of its characteristic forms are visible here outside the windows. Lichens grow on the rocks, forming irregular patches of varying colours. Wooly willows are widespread in the dry moorland and are easily recognised by their light green leaves covered with grey fuzz. Other common small shrubs are blueberry and dwarf birch. Lady smock is found in the marshy, low-lying areas. Those with a keen eye for different types of plants will see holy grass along the edges of the paths. In former times holy grass was picked to line chests and drawers as it gave a fine scent to clothes and linens.
Nature conservation
The land reclamation area east of the river
Not long after the settlement of Iceland the country's forests and other vegetation became extensively depleted. Where the vegetation disappeared, the winds were quick to erode the soil from large expanses of land, burying others in drifting sands. Flourishing farming districts became deserts. This was the case with the farms on the eastern bank of the river Hvítá above Gullfoss. Most of them were deserted after eruptions in Mount Hekla in 1104, although people remained on the farm across from the falls until 1875.
In 1970 the State Land Reclamation Service fenced off an area of 1250 hectares on the eastern bank of the river Hvítá. At the northernmost end the area was almost completely denuded, while furthest south the high, eroded banks bore witness to the extensive erosion. In an attempt to prevent further erosion the hummocks and banks were levelled seed was planted in the bare patches of soil and artificial fertiliser spread over the area during the following years. Downy birch and willow have now begun to take root in the area once more.
The aim of land reclamation is to restore formerly fertile land. Where erosion by wind and sand has taken a high toll, drastic measures may be needed to prevent further destruction and turn the tables, and eventually to build up vegetation sufficient to withstand future land use.
Grágrýti - Dolerite
Basalt forms the volcanic dolerite layers around Gullfoss. The rock is composed of about 50% silicon dioxide, 6-9% magnesium oxide and 12-14% iron oxide. When basalt magma cools and hardens it forms dark crystals (olivine, pyroxene) which give the rock its grey colour.
Móberg - Tuff (palagonite)
Tuff is formed when magma comes into contact with water, which causes it to cool very quickly. It disintegrates into ash which subsequently becomes cemented together. This often happens, for instance, when eruptions occur under a glacier. Most of the mountains visible from this spot are of tuff.
Hvammar - grassy hollows
All along the Gullfoss canyon there are deep, grassy hollows, green with vegetation. Most visitors to the site enter the grassy hollow by the falls. It benefits from the mist of the churning falls and the abundance of greenery bears witness to the mild, moist surroundings. Water avens and the common lady's mantle grow there in abundance and wood crane's bill, mountain sorrel and alpine bartsia are found aplenty on the slopes along the path. Farther down the canyon is the hollow Pjaxi. The name is thought to have been derived from the Latin word pax, meaning peace. The name could indicate that scholars taking shelter there found a sense of peace among the birch trees and patches of flowers, lulled by the sound of the river and the birds' singing.
Friðlýst svæði vestan ár. - 
Nature reserve west of the river
Within the time span of geology, the history of man occupies a mere split second. But even during this brief period man, with his customs and lifestyle, has managed to have an extensive effect on the natural environment, often with unforeseen consequences. By protecting certain natural areas, an attempt is made to reduce the effects of human habitation, to limit the extent of artificial construction and to avoid disturbing the land, geological formations or ecosphere.
The nature reserve around Gullfoss was established to preserve the falls and the canyon below and to permit everyone to enjoy this wonder of nature. All the natural life of the area is also protected and the vegetation may not be disturbed by grazing, agriculture or fertilisation.
Friðun Gullfoss - Protecting the falls
Sigríður Tómasdóttir of Brattholt
Sigríður was born at Brattholt on February 24, 1871, and lived there all her life. Brattholt was an isolated farm; the few visitors were usually travellers on their way to Gullfoss. Sigríður and her sister often accompanied visitors to Gullfoss, and laid the first pathway down to the falls. The attitudes of these people, many of whom had travelled great distances to catch sight of Gullfoss, must have had considerable effect on Sigríður.
Sigríður had no formal schooling but read widely. She did her share of farm work both indoors and out, and had artistic talents: was good at sketching and handicrafts, and drew and embroidered figures of flowers and animals.
Sigríður often went on long journeys, both to gather sheep in mountain pastures and to visit trading towns for supplies, either on horseback or on foot. She died in Hafnarfjörður in 1957 almost 87 years of age and was buried in Haukadalur. She is known first and foremost for her efforts regarding Gullfoss, and a monument to her was erected there in 1978.
Baráttan um fossinn -Struggle for the falls
At the turn of this century efforts began to acquire the rights to waterfalls and rapids in Iceland for industrial and hydroelectric purposes, often by agents for foreign enterprises. Early in 1907 an Englishman sought to purchase Gullfoss. He offered to pay a price of ISK 50 000, a sum equal to fifty times the assessed value of the farmhouse at . Brattholt. Tómas, the farmer of Brattholt and Sigríður's father, replied "I won't sell my friend."
In the autumn of 1907 a law was passed to ensure that only individuals and organisations resident in Iceland could acquire the country's waterfalls without seeking special permission and fulfilling certain conditions. After the law was passed, surveillance was relaxed, but hydropower speculators managed to gain control of many of the country's largest falls nonetheless. When Gullfoss came into the possession of men who were agents for foreign parties Sigríður, the farmer's daughter from Brattholt rose up to fight against several of the richest and most powerful men in Iceland and have the agreement concerning Gullfoss revoked. She put every ounce of effort she could muster into the struggle, made one long journey after another, crossing mountains and fording rivers, in all seasons. In Reykjavík she went from one official to another, but all in vain. The court handed down its verdict against her.
In 1928, however, when the agreed rental for the falls was not paid, the rental agreement became null and void.
Sveinn Björnsson,
President of Iceland 1944-1952
Sveinn Björnsson was the first President of the Icelandic republic. In his memoirs he recalled one of his tasks as a young lawyer had been to represent Sigríður of Brattholt in her struggle to preserve the falls.
Einar Guðmundsson of Brattholt
Einar was born on November 4, 1904, and fostered by the family at Brattholt from an early age. He purchased the Brattholt property from Sigríður Tómasdóttir in 1939. In 1975 he wrote the Icelandic Nature Conservation Council a letter offering to make them a gift of all the land surrounding the falls which the Council wished to declare a nature reserve.
In December of 1976 Einar turned over part of the Brattholt property to the Nature Conservation Council, stipulating only that the land was to be fenced before the end of 1977 and that it would be thenceforth used as provided for by the nature conservation act.
The Ministry of Culture and Education signed an agreement creating a nature reserve around Gullfoss on March 9, 1979. Einar died on September 27, 1985.
Friðland við Gullfoss - The nature reserve around Gullfoss
The aerial photograph shows the area donated by Einar Guðmundsson it is now protected by Icelandic law.
